Quck answer
To propagate a Puakenikeni tree from a branch, follow these steps:
1. Select a healthy branch that is about 6-8 inches long and has several nodes.
2. Remove any leaves from the bottom half of the branch.
3. Dip the cut end of the branch in rooting hormone to encourage root growth.
4. Plant the branch in a well-draining potting mix, burying about half of the branch.
5. Place the pot in a warm and sunny location, but avoid direct sunlight.
6. Keep the soil moist but not waterlogged, misting the branch regularly.
7. After a few weeks, you should start to see new growth and roots forming.
8. Once the roots are well-established, you can transplant the Puakenikeni tree into a larger pot or directly into the ground.
By following these steps, you can successfully propagate a Puakenikeni tree from a branch and enjoy its beautiful blooms.
The puakenikeni tree, also known as Fagraea berteroana, earned its name “ten-cent-flower” when it was brought to Hawaii in the 1930s due to the price of one of its white, trumpet-shaped blooms. These fragrant flowers, which originated in northern Australia and the South Pacific islands, are now commonly used in Hawaiian leis. The puakenikeni tree is an epiphytic plant, meaning it can grow on other trees or in the ground. However, it only thrives in warm climates found in USDA plant hardiness zones 11 through 13. If you want to propagate a puakenikeni tree from a branch, you can use the air layering technique.
Air Layering Puakenikeni
Air layering is a method of rooting a cutting while it is still attached to the tree, without the need for soil. To propagate a puakenikeni tree from a branch, you can follow this simple air layering technique.
Things You’ll Need
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Rubbing alcohol
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Waterproof gloves
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Indole-3-butyric acid liquid rooting hormone
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Transparent polyethylene
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Grafting tape or electrician’s tape
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Aluminum foil
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1-gallon pot
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Potting soil
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Sharp knife
Making the Cuts
Step 1: Clean Your Knife
Before you start cutting, make sure to clean and sanitize a sharp knife using a mixture of rubbing alcohol and water. Allow the knife to dry completely.
Step 2: Select the Branch
Choose a young branch that is about 1/2 to 3/4 inches in diameter. The branch should be shaded by other branches and at least 12 to 18 inches long.
Step 3: Girdle the Branch
Starting 6 inches above the point where the branch attaches to the trunk, make a shallow cut that goes through the bark and cambium. The cambium is the thin layer of tissue between the bark and the wood.
Step 4: Make the Second and Third Cuts
Create another cut 1 1/2 inches above the first one. Then, make a vertical cut between the two horizontal cuts. This will allow you to peel off a 1 1/2 inch section of bark and cambium between the cuts.
Binding Up Wounds
Step 1: Glove Up and Apply Rooting Hormone
Put on waterproof gloves to protect your hands. Soak the exposed inner wood with indole-3-butyric acid liquid rooting hormone. Dilute the rooting hormone according to the instructions on the bottle, usually a concentration of 5,000 to 10,000 parts per million of indole-3-butyric acid. Apply the rooting hormone directly to the wood or dilute it with water.
Step 2: Pack the Cut
Fill the cut and soaked area with a handful or two of damp sphagnum moss. Squeeze out any excess water from the moss to avoid making it too wet.
Step 3: Wrap and Tape
Take a 6- by 12-inch piece of transparent polyethylene and wrap it tightly around the moss-covered area. Fold the long edge of the plastic over itself several times. Attach the ends of the bundle to the branch using grafting tape or electrician’s tape. Make sure the tape is tightly sealed, with no moss protruding, to prevent rainwater from getting into the moss.
If the location is not as shady as you expected, you can wrap the bundle with aluminum foil to protect it from the sun.
Uncovering the Origins
Step 1: Look for Indicators of Rooting
After six to eight weeks, examine the bundle for any signs of roots starting to emerge from the moss.
Step 2: Remove the Cutting
Using sterilized pruning shears, cut the branch below the roots once they have developed.
Step 3: Pot the Rooted Cutting
Take the cutting to a shaded area and remove the plastic wrapping. Fill a 1-gallon pot with potting soil. When potting the new plant, you can leave the moss tangled in the roots.
Step 4: Relocate the Puakenikeni Tree to a Shaded Location
Place the pot in an area that receives partial shade for a minimum of two months. Gradually expose the plant to more sunlight until it reaches a height of at least 18 inches, at which point it can be transplanted into the ground.
Expecting the Best From Your Puakenikeni Tree
In its natural habitat, the puakenikeni tree can reach heights of up to 50 feet. However, if you propagate a puakenikeni tree from a branch for a garden setting, you may want to limit its height to around 15 feet so that its flowers remain within reach. These flowers bloom in clusters of up to 25 at the ends of the branches throughout the year. Each flower consists of five rounded petals measuring 3/4 to 1 1/2 inches in length, attached to a 1 1/2- to 4 1/2-inch tube.
When the blooms first open, they are white and gradually darken to a cream color on the second day. As they continue to age, they turn yellow or light orange. The tree’s berries, which are 3/4 to 2 inches long and contain small black seeds, also change color as they mature, transitioning from green to yellow to orange. The puakenikeni tree has thick, glossy evergreen leaves that range in length from 3 1/2 to 8 1/2 inches and widen at the tips.
