Quck answer
Building a simple 24-foot deck requires careful planning and execution. Here are the key steps involved:
1. Planning: Determine the deck’s location, size, and design. Obtain necessary permits and check local building codes.
2. Materials: Gather all the required materials, including lumber, screws, joist hangers, and concrete footings.
3. Foundation: Dig holes for the footings and pour concrete. Install post anchors to secure the posts.
4. Framing: Attach the ledger board to the house and secure it with lag screws. Install the beams and joists, ensuring proper spacing and leveling.
5. Decking: Lay the deck boards perpendicular to the joists, leaving a small gap for water drainage.
6. Railings and Stairs: Install railings around the deck perimeter for safety. Add stairs if necessary.
7. Finishing touches: Apply a weather-resistant sealant or stain to protect the deck and enhance its appearance.
Remember to follow safety guidelines and consult professional advice if needed.
Although decks can vary in size and shape, the fundamental structure of a deck remains the same, which includes footers, posts, frames, decking boards, and a railing. By using a few tools and having basic construction knowledge, building a deck can be a straightforward project that can be completed over a long weekend. Before starting any deck project, it is important to check with the local city or municipality to ensure compliance with building codes and inspections.
Necessary Materials
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Bags of concrete mix
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Pressure-treated posts measuring 4 x 4 x 8 feet
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Pressure-treated boards measuring 2 x 8 x 8 feet (6 in total)
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Pressure-treated boards measuring 2 x 8 x 12 feet (4 in total)
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Pressure-treated boards measuring 2 x 6 (length depends on deck width)
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Pressure-treated boards measuring 2 x 6 x 12 feet
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Pressure-treated decking boards measuring 4 x 6 feet (5 in total)
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Step stringers (the number of steps/stringers will depend on your plans)
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Pressure-treated boards measuring 2 x 4 x 8 feet
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Desired railing uprights (e.g. pressure-treated boards measuring 2 x 2 x 3 feet; quantity depends on plans)
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Carriage bolts measuring 1/2 x 8 inches, along with flat washers and nuts
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Socket/wrench for carriage nut
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Post hole digger
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String line
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Stakes
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Shovel
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Hammer
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Nail gun and compressor set up (optional)
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Spiral shank nails (if using a nail gun)
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Drill
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3-inch deck screws (if not using a nail gun)
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2-inch deck screws (or spiral shank nails)
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Lag bolts measuring 3/8 x 3 inches
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Spade bit measuring 1/2 inch
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Jigsaw
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Circular saw
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Level
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Chalk line
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Pencil
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Miter saw (optional)
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Tape measure
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Concrete mixing tub or concrete mixer
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Concrete hoe
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White marking paint (optional)
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Concrete forms (optional)
Planning and Layout
Step 1: Consult With a Building Planner
Arrange a meeting with a building planner at a local lumber yard to obtain an approximate estimate of the required materials and to receive guidance on deck code requirements and inspections specific to your area. The building codes may dictate the deck’s size, railing, footings, and other details.
Step 2: Mark Utility Lines
Before digging, call for utility mark-outs. You can contact 811 to request the markings. Make sure to call a few days in advance to ensure that the utilities are marked before you begin working.
Step 3: Stake the Corners
Place a stake where each corner will be located. Tie a string around the stake. Measure 3 inches less than 24 feet (23 feet, 9 inches) towards the next corner and mark it with a stake. Wrap the string line around that stake a few times and move towards the next corner. Repeat this process to establish all four corners.
Step 4: Verify Squareness
Before proceeding, ensure that the deck layout is square. Begin on the shorter side of the 90-degree angle and measure up 6 feet to make a mark. Return to the corner and measure down 8 feet on the opposite side to make another mark. Measure the distance between the two marks. Ideally, this measurement should be 10 feet, but adjustments may be needed to achieve a square angle. Place a stake at each corner and repeat this process for all four corners until the outline forms four right angles.
Step 5: Mark the Locations for the Posts
Use spray paint or a shovel to mark the location of the first stake. Measure every 4 feet along the string line in both directions and mark each interval with paint or shovel. These marks indicate where the posts should be placed.
Step 6: Dig Holes for the Posts
At each marked spot, dig a hole that is at least 2 feet deep and twice the size of the post. The exact depth and size may vary depending on local codes and frost lines. In some areas, the holes will also need to accommodate concrete forms.
Step 7: Install the Posts
Place the posts in the holes, and if necessary, fit them into concrete forms. Mix concrete and water in a mixing tub or mixer using a hoe. Pour the concrete into the holes until they are filled.
Step 8: Level the Posts
Ensure that each post is level. Attach a 2×4 or scrap lumber to the post, and drive a stake into the ground to keep it stable until the concrete sets. Leave the posts and concrete to cure overnight.
Framing Your Deck
Step 1: Mark the Top of the Deck
On each post, mark a line at the desired height of the deck (determined by style and possibly codes). Subtract 7 1/2 inches from this mark to find the position for the ledger board (7 1/2 inches accounts for the height of the decking board and the 2 x 6 frame). Use a level to create a straight line from this mark to all the posts (as the ground may be uneven, measuring at each post is not accurate).
Step 2: Attach the Ledger Boards
Secure the ledger board to the posts along the 24-foot length using 3-inch decking screws or spiral shank nails. Use 12-foot pressure-treated 2 x 8s on the outer side to minimize visible joints. Place 8-foot pressure-treated 2 x 8s on the inner side of the posts, creating two rows of sandwiched posts. Continuously check for levelness as you proceed.
Step 3: Insert Carriage Bolts
Drill two 1/2-inch diagonal holes per post and insert carriage bolts. Position the bolts so that the heads are visible on the outside and the hardware is on the inside. Use a ratchet/socket to tighten the bolts until the carriage head or nut is flush with the ledger board.
Step 4: Establishing Band Boards
To create band boards, dedicate four 2 x 6 x 12-foot boards. These boards will serve as layout markers for the deck joists and as an outside frame to conceal the ends of the joists. Place the boards in two lines next to each other to allow for the simultaneous layout of both band boards. The band boards should be exactly 24 feet long and extend 1 1/2 inch past each outside post, which matches the width of a 2 x 6 board. This arrangement ensures that the posts are inside the framework while the total width of the deck remains 24 feet.
Step 5: Marking Lines on the Boards
Measure 1 1/2 inches from the beginning of each board and make a mark to indicate the width of the outside joist. Then, measure 15 1/4 inches from the end and make a mark with an X. This X denotes that the joist starts at 15 1/4 inches and covers the X, so that the center of the joist aligns precisely with the 16-inch mark. Repeat this pattern, marking a line 3/4 of an inch before each multiple of 16 inches, until you reach the end of the board. The final mark at the end should be 1 1/2 inches from the end, just like at the beginning.
Step 6: Attaching Your Band Boards
Secure the band boards to each post using three 3-inch screws or spiral shank nails per post. The band boards should be placed on top of the ledger boards and extend 1 1/2 inches beyond the outside posts.
Step 7: Inserting the Joists
Insert the joists between the band boards, following the layout marks. The joists should also rest on the ledger boards, except for the two outermost joists, which should be attached to both the band boards and the posts. Use three 3-inch screws or spiral shank nails to attach the joists to the band boards and posts.
Installing the Decking and Railing
Step 1: Attaching the Decking
Fasten the decking to the floor joists using three-inch screws or spiral shank nails. If needed, cut out notches or holes in the decking to fit around the posts using a jigsaw. This will provide a neat finish and keep the posts intact for the hand rail uprights. Start with a full decking board and then stagger each consecutive row by four feet. This will help distribute the joints and enhance the deck’s strength.
Step 2: Cutting the Final Row
If necessary, use a circular saw to trim the final row of decking boards to the appropriate width, allowing for any desired overhang. Attach the boards with screws or nails.
Step 3: Cutting the Posts
Cut each post to the proper height from the top of the deck, subtracting 1 1/2 inches for the top railing. The standard height is typically around 3 feet, although specific regulations may apply in certain areas.
Step 4: Attaching the 2 x 4
Attach a 2 x 4 parallel to the deck, aligning it with the top of the posts and at the junction of the decking and the posts. Use three-inch screws or nails. Leave a 4-foot section open between two posts for the stairs.
Step 5: Attaching the Top Rails
Secure the 2 x 6 top deck rails to the top of the posts, aligning them with the outside of the posts and covering the edge of the 2 x 4. Use three-inch screws or nails.
Step 6: Creating a Spacer Block
To create a spacer block, cut it to the width required for each railing upright. Typically, this is around 3 inches with a slight variation of 1/4 inch. However, it is important to verify this measurement with the local building codes.
Step 7: Leveling the Upright
Begin by leveling the first upright and then proceed to attach it using 2-inch screws or nails. Make sure to space them with the spacer block and check the level every five or six uprights. Adjust accordingly to ensure proper alignment.
Building the Stairs
Step 1: Cutting the Steps
Start by cutting a 2 x 8 board into two sections measuring 4 feet and 3 inches each. Mark a line at 1 1/2 inches on each end of the board. Then, measure 15 1/4 inches and repeat the process, drawing a line followed by an X. This layout will give you a set of steps that is 4 feet wide.
Step 2: Attaching the Stair Stringers
Using 3-inch screws or nails, attach each step stringer to the 4-foot, 3-inch 2 x 8 board. Attach the board to the flat side of the stringer just past the angled edge, which is opposite to the upright of a tread.
Step 3: Attaching the Stairs
Position the stair form on the face of a band board or outside joist in a way that the outside stringers align with two posts. This avoids the need for additional posts for the stair railing. Level the treads parallel to the ground and align the entire stringer setup with the deck. Use patio blocks to secure the bottom of the stairs. Attach the stairs using 3-inch screws or nails and 3-inch lag bolts.
Step 4: Installing Bottom Posts
Prepare two more holes for the posts near the bottom of the steps to accommodate the handrail post. Set the posts, level them, and pour concrete into the post holes. Attach the posts to the stairs using carriage bolts. Waiting for the concrete to set is not necessary unless it is required for inspection purposes.
Step 5: Attaching Side Rails and Top Rail
At the same angle as the deck stairs, cut the bottom posts, top rails, and 2 x 4 rails. Attach the 2 x 4 side rails flush with the top of the post using screws or nails. Attach the top rail to the posts, but this time flush with the outside edge of the 2 x 4.
Step 6: Attaching the Uprights
Attach the uprights in a way that they are level vertically and spaced correctly. It is advisable to check the local building codes for any additional requirements regarding stairs and railings before the final inspections.
Tip
Always consult the local building codes before starting the project.
Consider using mitered joints for an added aesthetic touch.
Warning
Remember to wear appropriate safety equipment at all times.
