Quck answer
To install a wall-mount bathroom sink, follow these steps:
1. Gather the necessary tools and materials, including the sink, mounting brackets, screws, a drill, a level, a wrench, and plumber’s tape.
2. Locate the wall studs and mark the desired height for the sink. Use a level to ensure the marks are straight.
3. Attach the mounting brackets to the wall studs using screws. Make sure they are level and secure.
4. Apply plumber’s tape to the threaded ends of the water supply lines. Connect the supply lines to the faucet and tighten with a wrench.
5. Position the sink onto the mounting brackets and secure it in place with screws.
6. Connect the drain to the sink and secure with a wrench.
7. Turn on the water supply and check for any leaks.
8. Test the sink by running water and ensure it drains properly.
With these steps, you can successfully install a wall-mount bathroom sink.
One of the main reasons to install a wall-mount sink is that it saves space. It is also easy to clean and trendy, and it provides leg room for wheelchair users, making it the best choice for an accessible bathroom.
Installing a wall-mount sink is easier than installing one in a cabinet. However, if you are converting from a conventional sink, you will need to do some rough-in plumbing, which requires a permit. It is recommended to consult a licensed plumber to ensure your work passes inspection.
Overview of Wall-Mount Sink Installation
A wall-mount sink hangs from a bracket, which needs to be mounted to the wall framing. If the sink is wide enough, the bracket can overlap at least two wall studs, allowing you to anchor it with lag screws. In most cases, you will need to remove the wall covering and attach horizontal lengths of lumber to the studs. This also allows for installation of water supply lines and the drain.
Once the blocking and plumbing are installed, and the wall and floor are fixed, installing and hooking up the sink is straightforward. It is easier than installing a sink in a cabinet because you do not need to crawl inside to make the plumbing connections.
Materials Needed
- 2×6 or 2×8 lumber
- Wood screws
- 1/2-inch copper or CPVC pipe and fittings
- Soldering supplies
- Plastic pipe cement
- Drywall
- 2 shutoff valves
- 2 escutcheons
- 2 x 1 1/2-inch trap adapter
- Sink mounting bracket
- Sink drain assembly
- Plumbers’ putty
- Pop-up stopper assembly
- Drywall saw
- Pry bar
- Angle grinder
- Drill
- Screwdriver bit
- Torpedo level
- Hacksaw
- Pipe cutter
- Socket wrench
- Tongue-and-groove pliers
- Wrench
Image Credit: Sanford Creative
How to Install a Wall-Mount Sink
Warning
Before starting the wall-mount sink installation, shut off the water to prevent leaks or flooding.
Step 1: Expose the Wall Studs
Create a rectangular hole in the wall that extends vertically about 6 inches higher than the planned sink location and horizontally to the studs on both sides. Use a drywall saw to cut the drywall.
Note: If the wall is covered with tiles, carefully remove the tiles one by one using a pry bar and set them aside if you plan to reuse them. Use an angle grinder to cut through the cement backerboard and remove it, unscrewing any screws with a drill and screwdriver bit as needed. The cement backerboard can also be reused after scraping off the old adhesive.
Step 2: Installing the Blocking
Attach horizontal 2×6 or 2×8 blocking between the exposed studs, making sure it is flush with the edges of the studs facing the room. Use a torpedo level to level the blocking and position it so that the middle of its face aligns with where you want the sink to be.
Step 3: Completing the Rough-In Plumbing
If there are no existing water supply lines and drain, install them. If you need to redirect water pipes that previously served another sink, cut them back to about 6 inches before the desired point where they should come out of the wall. Attach short lengths of 1/2-inch pipe and elbow fittings using a hacksaw and solder or glue, extending them straight out about 2 inches past the finished wall. Copper pipes should be soldered, while CPVC pipes should be glued using plastic pipe cement.
If you need to install a new drainpipe or modify an existing one, it is recommended to consult a plumber. The drain vent should be installed no more than 5 feet away from the sink’s P-trap, and this requires additional plumbing work that you may not want to do yourself.
Step 4: Finishing the Wall and Installing Shutoff Valves
Install new drywall and any other desired wall covering, ensuring that the wall and floor are completely finished. After finishing, cut the pipe stubouts to a length of about two inches past the wall. Copper pipes should be cut using a pipe cutter, while plastic pipes can be cut with a hacksaw. Install a shutoff valve on the end of each pipe by soldering, gluing, or tightening a compression fitting, depending on the type of pipe. Before installing the valve, make sure to place an escutcheon on each pipe to conceal the gap between the pipe and the wall, as the valves will be visible.
Step 5: Installing an Adapter for the P-Trap
Most drain pipes have a diameter of 2 inches, while bathroom sink P-traps typically have a diameter of 1 1/2 inches. To connect them, install a trap adapter, which is a reducing bushing with a compression fitting for the P-trap pipe. Hand-tighten the compression fitting, similar to the other fittings in the P-trap assembly. Cut the drainpipe to a length of 1 to 2 inches beyond the wall and use plastic pipe cement to glue on the adapter.
Step 6: Installing the Sink Mounting Bracket
Position the mounting bracket (included in the sink hardware kit) on the wall, ensuring it is level using a torpedo level. Mark the positions of the mounting holes for the lag screws. Remove the bracket and use a drill and appropriate drill bit to create pilot holes, using a masonry bit if drilling through tile or stone. Place the bracket back in position, double-checking its levelness, and use a socket wrench to tighten the screws, securing the bracket to the wall.
Step 7: Prepare the Sink
To prepare the sink, apply plumbers’ putty on the underside of the sink strainer flange. Then, insert the strainer into the sink drain hole and tighten the nut with tongue-and-groove pliers. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to install the faucet onto the sink deck.
Step 8: Hang the Sink
Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to hang the sink. After attaching it to the bracket, you may need to secure it further with lag screws and washers that come with the mounting hardware. Before fully tightening the screws, ensure that the sink is level both from side to side and from front to back.
Image Credit:
Stephen Paul for Hunker
Step 9: Install the Pop-Up Stopper
Attach a tailpiece to the sink drain. The tailpiece is a pipe made of plastic or metal that is usually included with the faucet. If the faucet has a pop-up stopper, the tailpiece should have a hole for the stopper lever. Make sure the hole faces the back wall.
Insert the stopper, attach the stopper lever, hook it onto the bottom of the stopper flange, and then screw it onto the tailpiece. Drop the lift rod into the hole behind the faucet and connect the lever to the lift rod using the perforated metal strip and screws provided with the stopper assembly.
Step 10: Hook Up the Drain
Adjust the tailpiece length so that it matches the height of the drain opening in the wall. Install the P-trap by sliding a slip nut and washer onto the tailpiece, inserting the tailpiece into the trap’s mouth, and screwing on the nut. Rotate the other end of the trap to face the drain opening. Cut the horizontal connecting pipe that comes with the trap assembly to the appropriate length, insert one end into the trap adapter, and the other end into the trap outlet. Finally, tighten the slip nuts.
Usually, you can tighten these nuts by hand. However, if you notice any leaks, especially with chrome P-traps, you may need to use pliers for extra torque.
Step 11: Connect the Faucet to the Water Supply
Attach one end of a flexible water supply hose to each of the faucet inlets and the other end to one of the shutoff valves. Plumbing tape is not necessary for these connections, but you will need a wrench to tighten them. After tightening, open the valves and check for any leaks. If needed, tighten the connections further.
